There are two main types of seepage pits, drywells and cesspools. These systems are no longer permitted to be built and are generally older systems. Unless specifically stated the term seepage pit will be used to describe both systems.
FAQ NOTE: HOW DO YOU TELL IF YOU HAVE A HIGH WATER TABLE. A: DIG A HOLE OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE DRAINFIELD OR TRENCHES. IF NO STANDING WATER AT THE LEVEL OF THE LATERALS, THEN WATER TABLE IS NOT ISSUE.
When the term "additive" is used, it generally refers to septic tank additives. Septic-Scrub does NOT fall into this category. Additives are used by many homeowners in order to help take a proactive role in maintaining their septic system. Some of these additives make claims as to eliminating or reducing the need to pump the septic tank and practicing good septic system management. NO additive should be used for these purposes. In today’s world, the increased use of bleach, bleaching agents added into detergents, antibiotics, and many other products can stress the septic system. The use of a high quality biological additive may help maintain the efficiency of the septic tank biological system. Additives generally fall into two categories: chemical and biological. Chemical additives include both inorganic and organic products. Biological products include high quality products which are formulated with specialized bacteria and enzymes or low quality products which may not prove to be very beneficial. Chemical products are not recommended as they may upset the balance in the septic tank and cause more harm than good for your system. Many of these types of products dissolve the fats and oils in the septic tank. If these materials are transferred from the septic tank they will increase the loading on the field and increase the possibility of drainfield failure. Many biological additives are helpful to the operation of the septic tank and drainfield. These additives are specially formulated for this purpose and are available from your septic professional or a professional specialty store. Many of these biological additives can help restore a failing drainfield if used after the Septic-Scrub treatments. Many agencies and environmental protection departments do not recommend the use of septic tank additives. In many instances this is due to insufficient evidence for the benefits which they may provide. This can be due to the type of additive tested and to the claims made by some of the additive companies. Some general recommendations for the use of septic tank additives include: * Acids and bases may cause sludge bulking and disrupt the biological activity of the septic tank. They may also carry over into the drainfield and change the soil characteristics in ways that can help cause drainfield failure. * Enzymes only added to enhance septic tank performance without adding bacteria may instead add to the loading of the drainfield increasing the possibility of failure. * The addition of yeast, dead cats, raw meat will have no worthwhile effect of the performance and may in fact decrease the performance of the system. * The addition of organic solvent type products may be effective for removing grease from the internal house plumbing and the septic tank, but it transfers the oils and grease to the drainfield where there is an increase in the probability of drainfield failure and groundwater contamination. * Most root killer products should not interfere with system performance if used as directed. Local regulations should be followed in the use of these types
• Be conservative with the amount of water used. Practice water conservation. Repair any leaking toilets or faucets immediately. • Add a bottle of Septic-Scrub to your distribution box once or twice a year depending on the usage and age of the system. With the cost of replacing drainfields increasing in every part of the country, it may be better to be more conservative in preventative maintenance. If you decide to treat twice a year, do one treatment in the spring and one in the fall. Locate the distribution box and install a riser if it is not readily accessible to make product addition and inspection easier. Slowly add the entire contents of the bottle of Septic-Scrub and wash into the drainfield with a hose. If you do not have a distribution box, consider adding a riser from the drainfield pipe to make inspection and product addition easier. The addition of a professional bacteria product at this time may also help the performance of the drainfield. • Divert other sources of water like roof drains and sump pumps away from the septic system. Have the tank periodically pumped (typically every 1 to 2 years). This will keep the solids and scum from filling the septic tank.
Septic Systems Add 1-2 bottles a year for preventative maintenance depending on the usage of the system, the age, and the number of people in the household. If the pit is operating efficiently, they should be essentially free of standing water. They should absorb as much water each day as is added. This, however, rarely happens especially in an older system. If you have access to the distribution box or directly to the laterals, add the bottle directly into the distribution box or divide equally among the laterals. Add to the distribution box and distribute with a hose until it is all flushed into the drainfield. Cesspools Cesspools are similar to seepage pits except there is no septic tank. Cesspools function as both the septic tank and water absorption field. They are the hardest systems to treat. Cesspools should be pumped and cleaned about once a year to prolong their life. After they are pumped, the treatment is the same as for a seepage pit. Seepage Pits A seepage pit is a pit with a septic tank before the pit. These pits may be constructed in many ways. The goal of treating a seepage pit is to treat the bottom so that it absorbs water better. The sidewalls account for only a small percentage of the water absorbed. It is more important to treat the bottom and let the sidewalls take care of themselves. The most effective way to treat the pit is to first pump the water and then backwash to break up the bottom. If during this process water from the sorrunding area refills the pit, remove this water and leave about 100 gallons in the pit. Add two bottles of Septic-Scrub and another two the next day. You may have to add water the second day if the water has all drained out of the system. Additional treatment may be necessary. After a seepage pit is treated, its almost certain that it will start to fill up again as the bottom clogs again. If you have access to the pit, you can hang something like a fishing bobber so that it will float when the water level reaches about 25% full. When it floats, add two bottles of Septic-Scrub. There is no way to predict when the water level will reach this level. This technique will help prolong the time between pumpings.
The only way to keep the septic tank functioning properly is to have the tank solids pumped by a local pumping service. While the need for pumping depends on many factors such as usage, size, and wastes added, it is recommended by many local health authorities and the Environmental Protection Agency that a system be pumped every one to two years. While the pumping frequency may vary, every septic tank should be pumped at least every three years. The regular pumping of a septic tank is the only maintenance generally required for that part of the system. Failure to maintain a regular pumping schedule, or even the use of some additives, can cause more solids to pass through the septic tank increasing the likelihood of drainfield failure. It is only during a pump-out that the septic tank can be inspected for possible leaks and the baffles inspected. These are the only things that generally go wrong with a septic tank itself. If either of these fail, it is a serious problem that must be addressed immediately. It is unusual for a modern septic tank to develop leaks. If the tank is metal however, these tanks have a lifetime of about 20 years and must be replaced when they fail. The baffles help prevent grease, oils, and solids from passing through the septic tank to the drainfield. The baffles are the only part of a septic tank that generally fail. Baffles are critical to the proper operation of the septic tank. The inlet and outlet baffles can only be inspected when the septic tank is drained. The outlet baffle is more important to help prevent damage to the drainfield. If the baffles are damaged in any way, they should be replaced immediately. This is less costly than drainfield replacement.
These restoration methods cannot solve all problems associated with drainfield failure. They cannot solve a poor installation, high water table, poor percolation, or too small a field. If the septic tank has overflowed due to lack of pumping or broken baffles, then the drainlines should be jetted first to remove solid accumulation on the inside of the laterals.
WHY DOES A SEPTIC SYSTEM FAIL? The appearance of any signs of septic system failure may not necessarily mean that your system has failed; however, it is important to understand how your system works in order to properly diagnose problems and to determine how Septic-Scrub can help you. A septic system is a large part of the value of a home. Replacing a clogged drainfield or a complete system can cost from $5,000 to $30,000 or more. Timely and proper care should prevent problems from ever occurring. HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOUR DRAINFIELD IS FAILING? A failing drainfield no longer has the capacity to handle the volume of water which it receives. A failing drainfield can have these characteristics: the grass is greener over the drainfield than the rest of the yard; there are odors in the yard; the plumbing backs up; the ground is wet or mushy over the drainfield. The laterals will probably also have standing water in them. These are indications that the drainfield is being converted to anaerobic conditions. A drainfield that is anaerobic will not function properly and it must be restored to aerobic conditions before it will resume normal operation. Septic-Scrub can help to do this.
TYPES OF SOIL ABSORPTION SYSTEMS (Drainfield with individaul trenches) There are many designs for the drainfield. The drainfield may be constructed as a bed, individual trenches for each lateral, a seepage pit, or, in the special case where there is no septic tank, a cesspool. It may have a distribution box, a drop-box system, or no distribution box. This is mainly a function of the local custom. Most systems have a distribution box. The drainfield may be elevated where a pump is needed to raise the water to a higher level. The water may flow into the ground by gravity or the system can be pressurized. If you have a septic system, you should know the characteristics of your system. You should know where the drainfield is located and where the distribution box is. If you do not have a distribution box, you should consider having a riser installed between the septic tank and the drainfield. This will allow for easier inspection of the system and simplify treatment of the drainfield for possible restoration if the drainfield starts to fail and for preventative maintenance.
Instructions for Maintaining or Restoring A Septic System Drainfield
How to Get
A Homeowner in Wisconsin writes: I built my home 22 years ago, raised 4 children with all the laundry, showers, etc. that go with it. After that amount of time and use, I thought my filterbed had performed as well as could be expected. I had the septic tank pumped regularly and tried other septic system products to help improve the effectiveness of my system. But the last few years the ground over and around the filterbed remained saturated and would give off a foul odor. I was pretty much resigned to the fact that I would have to install a new filterbed , but I thought I would search the internet for any alternatives to that expensive undertaking. Luckily I found Arcan Septic-Scrub .Within 2 weeks of my first application of Septic-Scrub, the odor was gone and the ground that had been saturated was dried up . Now 8 weeks after my initial application my septic system is working just fine, with absolutely no odors or any other signs of a failing system. I would sincerely recommend this product to anyone with a similar filterbed problem. Thank you very much!!!!!!
Septic-Scrub naturally reacts with the buildup of sulfides in the drainfield. This chemical reaction produces a nontoxic material which flows and allows the soil bacteria to work. Another product of the reaction is oxygen. The oxygen does two things, 1) aids in the replenishment
The Septic Tank The primary purpose of the tank is to separate the solids and greases from the liquid waste. The septic tank contains anaerobic bacteria (these work without oxygen) which partially digests the solids and greases. Some undigested solids are left in the bottom of the septic tank. These solids must be pumped from the tank on a regular basis. This pumping prevents solids from being carried into the drainfield and preserves the effective capacity of the tank. The solids in the form of sludge settle on the bottom of the tank. Grease, scum, and hair float to the top. A typical septic tank holds 1,000 gallons of liquid, is watertight, and is usually made of concrete, but can be made of fiberglass or plastic. The tank has internal baffles
TYPES OF SOIL ABSORPTION SYSTEMS